Tuesday 8 October 2013

SUSHI AND I’M BACK

I’m sitting in front of an empty Word document and all I can think about is how much I missed this! I missed going out to restaurants, taking pictures, enjoying the experience, taste and smell food, chatting with the waiters and the owners, thinking what could be interesting to eat and write about… so here I’m back, after a (too long) time off, and after many requests to return to writing, here I am.
Where should I start? Of course I need to give a short explanation where did I go and what was I up to in all the period that I didn’t write – in a word, the answer is Mummy. I spent the beginning of my pregnancy in sleeping, and after that I simply didn’t have the passion to start explore places, but just wanted to go to eat at the same good places I already knew. Many times, I just went for a quick fill… After the little guy was born, I didn’t find the time and will to get dressed up, get on a train and go to one of London’s fabulous restaurants. So why am I back now? Because I have some time between the little guy’s nursery and my other stuff, so why not return to and old and fun hobby?

September is a festive month in our small family. My birthday, and the little guy’s, and me and my beloved’s anniversary, all happen in this month. In addition we also celebrated Rosh Hashana (Jewish New Year) with my mother coming to London for a visit. Who am I to miss so many opportunities to party? I booked us a table in advance (a month and a half ahead of time) at one of the best-spoken places I heard about recently, Sushi Samba (link). Some of you might know the name, and some of you might laugh and say ‘This place has been around for a while… it’s that Israeli guy’s place…’ – indeed, this is a chain that has a couple of branches in the U.S (New York and Las Vegas) and even in Tel Aviv – but there’s a difference.
I didn’t visit the New York restaurant (yet), and I’ve been to the Israeli one when it just opened, and I don’t remember a particularly cheerful experience. But, and it’s an important But, the London branch takes many other restaurants for a ride. Just like I would describe a potential partner to one of your friends – ‘Sushi Samba’ has all the attributes of a successful match:
Location: Central; View: Impressive-Amazing; Access: Tube station meters away from the restaurant; Atmosphere: Urban Chic. What’s so unique about it? The especially quick jump of the lift that takes you to the 38th floor of Heron Tower (link), and the very special food they serve here. A winning combination of Japanese, Peruvian, and Spanish food does sound a bit strange, but who said that marriage between different factions isn’t interesting?
As I mentioned before, I booked the table about a month and a half in advance, and even so, there were no slots for dinner and also not for lunch, so we found ourselves at 15:30, after the little guy’s swimming lesson, on our way to the City, armed with hunger (chlorine always makes me extra hungry) and quite a lot of excitement in our hearts – it’s been a while since we went to a place with so much hype.


We got the menus. My mother doesn’t understand what is she doing in a restaurant that serves sushi, my beloved is busy with the little guy who’s flirting with all the waitresses and hostesses, and only I am busy trying to figure out what would be cooler and different from what I had in other places, without leaving a hole in our wallet (not an easy task). I got full authority to order what-ever I want! The basic principles at ‘Sushi Samba’ are sharing platters and no particular order for the dishes – they come as they’re ready. For 3 people, it’s best to order 2 starters, 2-3 middle courses and one main. I signaled the waiter and just improvised between my desire to diversify my experience, my mother’s concerns from raw fish rolled in rice, food that the little guy could also sample, and something to please my beloved who claims that sushi is not food. Making all these decisions was quite tiring, but at the end I was able to find a balance between the requests from around the table.
Shall we begin? For starters, I ordered shrimps tempura in spicy mayo and black truffles vinaigrette (£ 13). The dish included many prawns so there were no doubts and no cross-staring as all people who share the dish put their chopsticks into the plate again and again. The little guy also got the first taste of shrimp in his life, and it seems we share a taste for the new and interesting.


 The starter that rocked our world was glazed pork wraps with palmetto, orange and bib lettuce (£ 12). You could see the salt crystals on the plate, just one example to the attention to detail in preparing this perfect nibble. You can’t really start taking small bites out of a dish that is of the size of a single bite exploding with tastes, so it’s not worth wasting time trying to engineer the next bite every time.


While sitting, we are drinking and enjoying a bottle of Brut that sparkles in our mouth just like a Brut should, without putting any strain on the taste. Personally, I never got along with combining Asian food and wines, so I gave up on wine in this meal. Needless to say, my glass looked as if I’m not drinking at all, because the waiter jumped at me with every sip and tried to re-fill my glass. A bit scary, but at some point he understood that I don’t appreciate his stalking…
Another starter was gyoza (£ 12). I have to say that this was a rather dull dish, that wasn’t any different than other gyozas that I tried in less impressive restaurants, or in Chinese street eateries that take themselves seriously and make proper dumplings. Here, it was nice, but not more than that.


The headline was the main course of this lovely afternoon. On a tray with steaming hot stones, we got 3 pieces of meat that were scorched in the most accurate way I’ve seen recently. Those were pieces of rib eye, reddish chorizo, and another piece of rump steak (£ 42). The meat wasn’t fatty at all, but was soft and smooth in the mouth. On the platter we got chimichuri sauce, steamed green leaves, fried bread crumbs (for the crunch), tomato and pepper salad, and a dream-like beans dish. No need to say that the platter was destroyed in no time. My mother licked her fingers, my beloved didn’t put his fork down for a second (and this is hard when you have a 1-year old kid to entertain/chase/feed etc), and the little guy asked for more and more chorizo even though it was spicy.


Presentation rules at Sushi Samba, and with every tray of sushi that passed in front of my eyes (and there were quite a few), my desire for sushi just grew. Since I wasn’t with in sushi-appreciating company, I ordered the simple rolls that I imagined will be accepted relatively easily: One crunchy red tuna roll (£ 12) and two hand rolls with shrimp tempura, coriander, spicy mayonnaise and red onion (£ 13). The surprise was that the hand roll weren’t rolled in algae, but it what looked like an extra thin and transparent omelette. Delicious!! Is it needless to say, everybody including everybody licked their fingers ?!?



The sweet taste had to lead into a dessert. The waiter recommended the cheese cake warmly (£ 13). How much can you innovate with a cheese cake… I thought about it and said oh well. We didn’t feel like having chocolate (too heavy), and all the sorts of puddings that appeal to the British crowds aren’t our taste. What did I say before about presentation? I’m sure you imagined a triangular crumbs cake again, but this is not what came out this time. The artwork oh sorry… the cheesecake was placed on the table and we stared at it in awe for a while. The cake itself was placed inside a transparent sugar ball, which rested on a mountain of sweetened crumbs, vanilla ice-cream, strawberry jelly, drops of granite, and a gentle orange zest.


It wasn’t cheap, but so worth the price. The four of us had an extraordinary time, a first class culinary experience, and with no expectations up front. Very recommended if you’re willing to refresh your mouth with plenty of new tastes, and if you are not afraid of heights J



Heron Tower
Bishopgate 110
 London EC2N 4AY
Tube station: Liverpool st



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